You can lead a horse to water, but if you can get him to float on his back you’ve got something.
All posts by Jim
Temecula
i first started going out to the desert, the Palm Springs area, after Maureen and i returned to the Southwest corner in 1985. We celebrated one of first anniversaries in Idyllwild, a mountain retreat, which is en route to the desert. To do both, one must go through Temecula, California.
It has also been a spot for golf outings since the late 1980’s. It was rumored the Mafia ran the place and had Robert Trent Jones design the course. Then, it was named Rancho California Golf Club. It was surrounded by scrub desert. Sometime in the 90s, the Southern California Golf Association turned it into The Members Club. It now goes by the moniker of The Golf Club at Rancho California.
Through those forty years or so, it has been a frequent spot for my golfing buddies and me. This year, it became the host club for the San Diego Telephone Company Golf Association tournament. i will write more about that super golf group later. But this post is about Temecula.
During those first years of golf stops and pass throughs, Temecula was not much more than a spot in the road, a small village in the desert. Leaning on Google’s Artificial Intelligence, i learned the name came from the Pechanga Band of the Luiseño tribe of native Americans, who have occupied the valley for more than 10,000 years. “Temecula” was the Spanish interpretation of the Luiseño Indian word “Temecunga.” In the Luiseño language, it is a combination of “temet” (sun) and “ngna” (place of) and means “where the sun breaks through the mist.” The term originated from the Luiseño legend of the beginning of the world in a place “where the world began and the sun and sand meet.”
The name is apropos for such a place. It was a stop for the Butterfield Stage line that delivered mail to the West Coast, specifically San Francisco. This was in the mid-1850s, and i’m guessing the “Southern Immigrant Route” through Temecula was chosen due to the travails of going north, which required crossing the Sierras.
Still the area relied upon water from the Santa Margarita River and its tributaries, a small amount indeed.
Back in the Spanish days, missionaries planted and harvested mission grapes in the 1800s. In 1968, Vincenzo and Audry Cilurz planted the first winery in the valley. Ely Callaway established the first commercial winery a bit east of “Old Town Temecula” in 1974. Soon offshoots and competitors created more and more wineries. It is now a big business and significant tourist attraction.
That small village of Temecula had several horse ranches and a bunch sod farms when i first transited there. But the interstate system placed I-15 running by the village as the wine business was beginning to expand. And then, and then, folks from Los Angeles and San Diego decided it was a good place to live with much lower home prices. The hour commute to San Diego and longer to LA did not deter them. The mega explosion of the small town into a metropolis is complete.
The Sunday evening trip was a pleasant drive. Then about a mile into Orange County with another eight miles to go, i hit traffic, three to four lanes of stop and go traffic that took an hour to cover. At the I-215 split from I-15, it was ten lanes one way of a crawling wall of cars.
The next morning, i awoke and walked to my car. Murrieta Hot Springs, the adjoining town to Temecula is no longer adjoining. Its strip malls of franchised everything were flanked by house upon house upon house. Hotels are flourishing. The golf course, once desert with double wides surrounding the 14th through 16th holes is now new homes, new homes, and the original double wides.
My ride home on Tuesday was grueling, i hit Temecula traffic, had a brief respite and then ran into the San Diego commute. The normal transit time of ninety minutes took nearly three hours.
Stunned is a pretty good description of how i feel about all of this. Temecula spends a majority of its days in 100-plus temperatures. It is dry. i find it difficult to believe there is enough water for such a large population…and it is still growing.
The Temecula explosion seems to be de rigueur for towns nowadays. They all seem to want growth, and boy, do they get it. Seattle, Austin, Nashville, Temecula. i recently read my home town of Lebanon is the 12th fastest growing city in the country. Traffic is awful. Cost of utilities rise astronomically, real estate taxes, will eventually rise to cover some infrastructure increases. And sometime, the governments, state and local, will need more money and taxes, if not income itself, will rise.
When i first came to the Southwest corner, it was the right size. i could drive to my ships from home quickly and easily. Going downtown was a pleasant experience. Dining at fine places was affordable. Access to everything was no problem. The people here made fun of that disaster to the north called LA, were glad the two cities were separated by Camp Pendleton.
Yet, the Southwest corner hunted for growth, and got it. The place is a mini-LA.
i gotta tell you, i prefer small places, places like Lebanon used to be: farms, woodlands, a small downtown where you could go easily and enjoy. Everyone knew everyone else. Children played and roamed the streets and fields with no supervision. i could go on, but i’m sure you get the picture.
Maybe it’s just my age. Things change. But it doesn’t seem to me to be any better, just different.
My rant is done. My amazement remains. Oh yes, my foursome won the first day and did well on the second.
Music, me, and “The Times They Are A Changin'”
The quote in the title of this post comes from Bob Dylan’s song title, which he sang in 1964, the high time of my music.
In case you haven’t figured it out, i’m an old music nut. Like all kinds of old music. As far back as my conscious thought (which now are beginning to fade away), i listened to the Nashville AM stations we could pick up thirty miles away.
At night after nine o’clock, WLAC played the blues until around four in the morning. Of course, most of my listening was with the radio under the blankets with me after lights out.
Simm’s Motorola store on South College Street had wonderful stereo system consoles in the front (long before we had an inkling of a phone without a wire and a dial) had rows of wooden bins chocked full of 45 RPM records stacked neatly. i would get my ten dollars for the weekly mowing and trimming of Fred and Ruby Cowan and J. Bill and Bessie Lee Frame’s yards and head down to Simm’s on my Schwinn one-speed bicycle. There, i wished i had more lawns to mow and drop that ten bucks on about ten records, saving the change for a Dr. Pepper and a Three Musketeers candy bar or two.
The records would be placed in the bicycle basket on the handlebars, and i would pedal home just over a mile, run upstairs to the bedroom my brother Joe and i shared. i would pull out the 45 RPM record player (portable if you were going to someplace had an electrical outlet, and play my new purchases for the rest of the afternoon.
Or…i would listen to a special offer on WLAC from Randy’s Record Shop in Gallatin and order ten records for somewhere around three bucks from the Excello or other minor recording studios, all blues, all blues and play them over and over and over. From there, i graduated to folk music and fell in love with Judy Collins and all the others. i began to appreciate country music, especially bluegrass after eschewing the genre in my know-it-all teen years. And someone exposed me to jazz.
At least, i left Vanderbilt (unceremoniously) with a wider appreciation of music. i did not realize i was about to be immersed into the waters of all music. MTSU was now my college education site. It turned out better than i would have ever imagined. But to get there and stay there, i had to have at least one, two, or three jobs to pay for it. The Navy and primarily my parents had paid for cavorting around Nashville’s West End. Now, it was my time to pay. The biggest paycheck was from WCOR. i got my third class radio engineer license and became a deejay.
Time to absorb some music. i was the FM evening disc jockey from 7:00 to 10:30 each weeknight and Sunday mornings. i worked AM, playing Top 40 pop music, although i snuck in as much blues as i could on Saturday and Sunday afternoons.
Clyde Harville and Coleman Walker’s country music began to grow on me . My stops at the Birdwell’s diner, which was originally Winfree’s Restaurant, after my evening work for beer and table shuffleboard, sold me on “country.” After all, how could anyone not fall in love with country music after listening to Ernest Tubb and Loretta Lynn sing “Sweet Thang” several times a night.
But my real education came on that FM show. FM radio was a new phenomenon, especially in small town country stations. There were no commercials, only public service announcements. The small studio walls were crammed with 33 RPM LPs, not one of them country, rock, or blues.
For the first week or so, i followed my predecessors and would pick out an album randomly, introduce it, and put on a side and relax until it was over. i played a public service announcement every ten minutes, read headline news at the half hour and read a five minute news wire service along with the current temperature on the hour. It provided some study time, but it was boring, boring.
An idea came into my head: why not explore that vast number of albums in those cubbies? The station’s FM format was called “Accent.” i adopted the term and began “Evening Accent.” i would go through the albums and try to mix easy listening, light classical, jazz, big band, and vocals. i would introduce each song and explain the genre, artist(s), and source.
It became a music school for me. i loved it, especially in the summer. That’s when i would open the evening with Tony Bennett’s “Once upon a Summertime,” and then proceed with what i called a “cornucopia of music.”
It was a pretty thorough education. i had covered most music genres of that time except opera. i covered that when i heard an aria from Bizet’s “Carmen.” i immediately went out and bought a three-record set of the entire opera, and listened to it end on end for a couple of days.
There was more music until i went so far west i was in the East…on a ship. i didn’t listen to a lot of new music simply because there wasn’t any available over there at sea. But i had recorded tapes and cassettes of my old music. As i warned in my intro to “JJ the Deejay’s weekend afternoon rock program from years ago, it truly “may sound scratchy, but it’s just the gold dust in the grooves.”
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That is mostly what i listen to now, my old music. i have listened to the new music, not enough to claim any valid assessment, but it seems to me there is a difference from today’s tunes and mine.
The old music i listen to seems to focus on two themes. Most of it is about love, treasured loves, broken hearts, promises of love, adoration. The second focus is about dancing, every kind of dancing: “It Takes Two to Tango,” “The Twist,” “The Bossa Nova,” “The Walk,” “The Tennessee Waltz,” “The Alligator,” “Shake Your Money Maker,” “The Dog,” “The Monkey,”…ahh, i think you get the idea.
It seems to me the stuff i get from today’s music is angst and anger, or braggadocio macho or feminist rants. i have heard some really good stuff. After all, i have two daughters who are both music lovers and they play a lot of today’s good music.
This isn’t a knock on today’s music, although i don’t like all of the fireworks, smoke, flashing lights and bizarre costumes that seem required to present it. i like my music to focus on the music.
i come from a different, long gone world. Things have changed, and howdy, have they changed. i remember being admonished by Dr. Womack, formerly my seventh grade principal. Years later number of my contemporaries were bemoaning the state of our teenagers, Dr. Womack pointed out that our parents had said the same things, held the same concerns about us when we were teenagers. He was correct.
During my four score years around here, i have been exposed to many cultures in many countries. The Navy was responsible for a lot of that exposure. And as much as we fear different folks from different places and cultures, we all are a lot a like. Each bunch has a lot of good folks with good intentions. There are a lot of people who only care about themselves and mistreat others to get what they want. There are folks who tell the truth and folks who lie. There are saints and there are devils in all of those groups.
i’m done with any effort to improve our group: too old, and i’m pretty sure no one under 65 would not listen to me anyway. i am not complaining. i’m not well-versed in how folks today think about living well. It’s sort of like my music and theirs. i wish them the best.
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But late this afternoon, i plan to sit on patio as the sun slides into the Pacific behind our hill, turn on Tony Bennett’s “Once Upon a Summertime,” close my eyes, and smile.
A Tale of the Sea and Me: Forced Draft Blowers
i found happiness in the firerooms even before i became CHENG* on the Hollister. As a midshipmen, my time in those two dark, white heat hot, sweltering caves below the main deck was an escape to earlier times in the heart of a magical, Rube Goldberg dream of a power plant.
During my 1963 third class middie deployment* i spent almost three weeks on the 04-08 and 16-20 watches in the after fireroom. It was an education all by itself.
As CHENG, i marveled at the work of the BTs and found it thrilling to be in fireroom on a full-power run with those boilers seeming to be a pounding heart pumping out the steam to drive the turbines and shafts to their maximum.
On one of the two full-power runs that were made during my tour, Hollister was running in excess of 35 knots and still was increasing when the run was cut short in order to make another commitment. i think she would have gotten close to 40 knots if we hadn’t had to quit the run.
During a DESRON* 9 group underway period, the commodore created a 5-mile race of the ships. All of the ships, except Hollister had been converted from black oil, the old fuel for steam ships after coal to “Navy distillate,” a much clearer burning fuel. i once again was in the fireroom on the 1JV sound-powered phone system.* As we gathered speed and the two 600-pound boilers were again pulsing, i learned Hollister was nosing ahead. i climbed up the ladder to the main deck and walked out on the port side weather deck. Hollister was clearly head by two ship lengths as we reached the five-mile “finish line.”
(A lesson here. You can lose some advantages by worrying about environmental or other concerns rather than your mission to have the most effective battle platform.)
As noted, i was enchanted with firerooms in the old Navy.
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One of the blessings i had as CHENG was a BTCM* who didn’t leave during the great exodus when the ship went reserve. As i write, i am struggling with his name and will eventually remember. He was a wonder.
As the never-ending bunch of contractors poured onto the ship as we approached our overhaul, one group was to assess our forced draft blowers in the firerooms. The forced draft blowers forced the air into to boiler to complete the combustion of the fuel oil to heat the water to steam. The forced draft blowers were massive. Hollister had a total of eight, two for each boiler. The contractors would attached all of their high-faluting electronic marvels to the blowers, run the blowers up to their operating speed, check and record all of their readings, and create a report at ginormous expense to determine which of the forced draft blowers required an overhaul.
Before the contractors arrived, my BTCM had the forced draft blowers turned on to operating speeds. He then placed a nickel, standing on its edge, on each of the blowers in turn. If the nickel fell flat, the master chief assessed that blower required an overhaul. If the nickel remaied upright on its edge, the master chief pointed out, the blower did not require an overhaul.
The BTCM was 100% accurate. The expensive report agreed. But the BTCM’s method only cost a nickel if we lost a nickel in the bilges during the process.
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When the Hollister was in Pearl Harbor, we were tied to the quay wall on the base. There was an FF astern of us. A tanker came along side to transfer JP5, an aviation fuel, which we carried for fueling some pumps and in an emergency transfer to an aircraft.
As our auxiliary gang was connecting the fuel hose to our pipeline to the fuel tanks, the hose experienced a hole ( i think one of our machinist mates stepped on it). About 10-20 gallons spilled over the side.
i made the mistake of reporting the spill to the Command Duty Officer, who dutifully told the XO. The XO came out to the DASH* deck where the fuel transfer operation was back in progress. He was red faced, excited, and in distress. He immediately told me to throw fuel soaking pads over the side and execute a number of other procedures and reports to appropriate authorities. He was flying off the handle.
i finally quieted him down, convinced him the master chief and i had it under control. He returned to his stateroom. The master chief directed the fueling team to put the pads back in their stowage. He and i stood at the port side hand rail and watched the barely visible film of JP5 float on the tide aft of us to the FF.
You see, if anyone reported the spill, it would to appear it came from the FF. Hollister burned the old black oil fuel and that was floating to the surface all of the time as it was released from spills during the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1944.
The BTCM mused, “I don’t know what the XO is all flustered about. If the spill, which doesn’t amount to anything here in Pearl, was reported, it would look bad. He, the CO, and you might get fired, but he and the CO would still get to retire. You wouldn’t make lieutenant commander and be kicked out of the Navy. If you weren’t sweating it — before the XO came on the scene, the BTCM and i had decided what to do — there is no reason he should.”
i learned a lot from that man.
NOTES:
* CHENG – Chief Engineer or Engineering Department Head on a Navy ship.
* BT – Boiler Tender, later termed Boiler Technician…i liked “tender” rather than “technician”
* third class middie deployment – third class midshipman, or NROTC midshipmen after their freshman year went on a two-month cruise on ships
* The midshipmen were in three sections while the BT’s* were in 4 sections. Consequently, the watches were not “dogged,” which meant the 16-20 watch was not split into two, two-hour dog watches. Ergo, the midshipmen did not rotate through the watches.
* DESRON: destroyer squadron normally consisting of five or six destroyers under the command of the destroyer commander or “commodore.”
*sound-powered phone system: a system of communication with headsets requiring no electricity. On Navy ships, the. “1JV” circuit was the primary engineering circuit for CHENG to communicate with the major parts of the steam plant (engine rooms, fire rooms, etc.
* BTCM: Boiler Tender Master Chief Petty Officer, an E-9, the highest pay level for enlisted personnel
* DASH: Drone Anti-Submarine Helicopter. These unmanned helicopters were designed to be flown out over suspected submarines and drop a pinging torpedo to find and destroy a submarine. The program, which had numerous failed exercises, most of which lost the expensive drone, was abandoned in the late 1960’s. The DASH deck on the 01 level aft, remained.
Eleventh Law for Naive Engineers
If more than one person is responsible for a miscalculation, no one will be at fault.